From the ancient sands of Egypt, arriving in Turkey marks a fascinating shift in both history and infrastructure. This journey through Ankara, Izmir, and Istanbul perfectly weaves together deep historical exploration, from Byzantine ruins to Ottoman palaces, with an extensive survey of the country’s diverse rail and public transit systems.
Ankara: Capital Foundations
Arriving from Egypt via Turkish Airlines, the trip kicked off at the JW Marriott Ankara, featuring excellent indoor and outdoor pools. The historical deep-dive began with the Republic Museum, the Museum of the War of Independence, and Ankara Palas, followed by a climb to Ankara Castle and a visit to the remarkably rich Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. A city walk to Kuğulu Park and the Atatürk Mausoleum rounded out the cultural sites.
The afternoon was dedicated to transit exploration, taking the metro all the way out to Harikalar. A major highlight was the overnight train to Izmir—a fantastic value at $50 for a private cabin, complete with a mini-fridge stocked with complimentary snacks and drinks.
Izmir: Aegean Coasts and Ancient Engineering
Checking into a sea-view suite at the Hyatt Regency provided a stunning base, despite the unheated pool. The city exploration balanced urban transit—riding the local tramway—with cultural landmarks like the Historical Elevator, Konak Square’s Clock Tower, Kemeraltı Bazaar, and the Agora Open Air Museum.
The following day featured a trip to Ephesus, offering a breathtaking look at Byzantine architectural ruins.
The evening was spent enjoying the local ecology, with fantastic bird watching at the nearby Cakalburnu Laguna. The Izmir leg concluded with a ferry ride, visits to the Atatürk Museum and the Archaeology and Ethnography Museum (housed in the Culture and Arts Factory), and a walk past the old railway station before flying to Istanbul.
Istanbul: Palaces, Parks, and Transcontinental Transit
Istanbul began with sweeping views from a terrace suite at the Ramada. The days here were a masterclass in layering history with modern urban mobility:
- Ottoman Elegance: Visiting Dolmabahçe Palace, notably entering through the massive, southwest-facing tourist gate.
- Byzantine Marvels: Exploring the exterior of the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Irene, and the stunning Topkapi Palace Museum. Gülhane Park offered glimpses of Roman columns and a mini cistern, while the Sultanahmet Square showcased ancient engineering via the Theodosius Obelisk, Serpent Column, and Walled Obelisk.
- Rail Exploration: The transit network took center stage with rides on the T2 tram and the unique TF1 park cable car. The T6 tram offered beautiful coastal views along a repurposed historic railway. Riding the B1 Marmaray line provided a firsthand look at Turkey’s most critical commuter route, experiencing the high-frequency passenger flow of a transcontinental railway.
Istanbul: Islands and Industrial Art
A ferry ride to the Princes’ Islands offered a scenic hike to the Greek Orthodox Monastery of St George Koudounas, rewarding the effort with beautiful scenery. The island also offered a sobering look at the abandoned Greek orphanage—a massive structure left to decay after international disputes halted its conversion into a resort hotel.
Returning to Kadıköy by ferry, it was time to experience the T3 retro tram. Watching the operation up close revealed that the vintage streetcar is controlled by a distinct long lever, rather than a traditional wheel.
The final days were packed with diverse transit runs, including the BRT to the immersive Panorama 1453 History Museum, the T4 and T5 trams, the TF2 cable car, and the free F3 funicular to Vadistanbul Shopping Mall. A visit to Feshane Artİstanbul—a former factory brilliantly adapted into a free arts and library campus—capped off the cultural tour, followed by a ferry ride to Yıldız Park and views of the Rumeli Fortress.
Due to a metro extension closure, the journey wrapped up with a bus ride to the airport, leading to an excellent lounge experience in Istanbul before flying onward to Abu Dhabi. From the intricate controls of vintage trams to the architectural triumphs of ancient empires, Turkey offered a masterfully dense blend of history, culture, and locomotion.
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